What makes an ingredient natural?

Many companies now claim to include natural ingredients in their skin and body care, but it is worth remembering that as there is no governed regulated definition attributed to the term ‘natural’, many ‘chemicals’ are labelled natural because they are derived from natural sources (coconut oil for example). While this may be true, the ingredient has undergone a chemical solvent extraction process or has had synthetic additions added, rendering it very ‘unnatural’. 

It is widely accepted that the term ‘natural’ refers to ingredients extracted directly from plants, animals or other source as opposed to being produced synthetically. 

But while some raw ingredients are extracted ‘directly’, how many have to undergo processing 

or chemical reaction to extract the material and essence? – Well a lot actually. For example, what we often think as being completely natural are essential oils. Most aromatic and therapeutic plants are distilled to produce the essential oils, but this process produces chemicals that weren’t present in the raw ingredient. Some essential oils are extracted using solvents (Rose and Jasmine for example). 

Many ingredients have to be treated in order to access other properties, such as Palm oil which is chemically processed to produce an emulsifier, or coconut oil which is converted into an active detergent. By definition, a natural ingredient should be unadulterated, unprocessed and unchanged. Otherwise, can it really be classified as natural, raw or unaltered? 

In reality, we are not going to mash a carrot every time we want a rejuvenating mask or crack an egg to condition our hair. Besides, our skins need a fighting chance against the ravages of our modern, stressful lives. So if we want natural skin care what defines an ingredient as ‘natural’? 

I think the ingredient must (at least) be: 

• present in or produced by nature (plant, animal or microbial); 

• produced or formulated using minimal processing; 

• directly extracted using the simplest of methods, including natural solvents and chemical reactions (such as acidification, basification, hydrolysis and fermentation); 

• produced without the use of synthetic ingredients or petrochemicals;

• cultivated and processed in a sympathetic and ecological way; 

• free from all synthetic ingredients (such as artificial colours, emulsifiers and perfumes); 

• GMO free; 

• free from synthetic preservatives. 

So beware of companies making claims they don’t necessarily live up to. Look at the ingredients listed on their products. Those ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ cleansers and creams you’re applying may not be quite as natural and chemical-free as you may have been led to believe.

Food additives to avoid

Aspartame, otherwise known as Canderel and Nutrasweet is widely used as a sweetening additive in thousands of foods and drinks. It is 200 times sweeter than natural sugar and is often listed as ingredient E951. 

 

Whilst there are governments, health authorities and medical researchers globally that support the use of aspartame in our food and drink, there is substantial research that shows it to be unsafe and toxic, and 'highly likely' to be responsible for the global rise in Multiple Sclerosis and Systemic Lupus. 

 

A bit of history

Aspartame was originally discovered in 1965, and research indicated that it may cause cancer in rats. In 1980, it was reviewed and classed as safe but vital raw data was ignored. Aspartame was approved for use as an additive in 1981. 

 

Upon digestion, it breaks down into chemicals including phenylalanine and methanol (which belongs to the same class of poisons as Cyanide and Arsenic) and then to formaldehyde and formic acid. There is much controversy on the effects that these chemicals have on those that consume aspartame sweetened food. The symptoms of, what is known as, Aspartame Disease include spasms, shooting pains, cramps, numbness in limbs, joint pains, dizziness, vertigo, anxiety, headaches, tinnitus, blurred vision and blindness, and symptoms of Fibromylagia. 

 

In the UK, products which contain aspartame must list the chemical as an ingredient and carry the warning “Contains a source of phenylalanine”. Phenylalanine depletes Serotonin and therefore can cause depression, panic attacks, rage and violence. It is also life threatening to those with Phenylketonuria, which causes problems with brain development. 

 

Worryingly, research shows aspartame is deadly to Diabetics, causes Alzheimer’s disease in women as young as 30, and could even be responsible for Gulf War Syndrome. Given the research and the fact that Monsanto who create aspartame are also the largest GM food company, I would suggest steering very clear of any foods containing this E-number. Instead train your tastebuds to accept less sweet foods, it's easier than you think and your skin and health will thank you for it!

Winter skincare

So, with the onset of Winter, another year has (almost) come and gone again. It's a slight reminder that we (quite possibly) have one or two more wrinkles, perhaps a few aches that we didn't have last year and a need to be careful with our skin care routine.

Winter skin care should be richer, protective and moisturising to help strengthen the skin against the harsh elements, lower humidity and the warm drying effects of our central heating systems. This is the one season when we all need a good moisturiser. Even those with oily skin should use at least a light formula. Those with dry or damaged skins fair worst as the cold weather can aggravate symptoms. Dryness is worse where the skin’s oil glands are weakest. Cheeks, arms and legs have less sebaceous oil glands and the hands are thinner than in other places. All these areas need extra protection and care.

To stay soft, and protected all Winter, you should:

• Always moisturise dry skin after bathing or showering. Pay attention to elbows, knees and feet;
• Take care of your hands. The skin here is thinner, so after washing, always dry thoroughly and use a good rich hand cream or balm. Wearing gloves in the cold weather will help further protect against dryness;
• Wear more layers of clothing outdoors. Layering clothes keeps you warmer as they form air pockets in between each layer;
• Exfoliate the skin regularly to get rid of dead cells and reveal a healthy new vigour and sheen. It also prepares your skin for deep treatments;
• Always moisturise face and neck with a treatment suited for your skin type and condition before you step out into the cold;
• Protect the lips from drying and chapping. This is important as they do not have any sebaceous glands (so are not moisturised). Apply a natural vegetable oil based balm (not petroleum based as this will make your need for moisturising greater);
• Use a weekly hot oil conditioning treatment on the hair to help restore moisture, shine and lustre;
• Practise the art of massaging to help with circulation, particularly in the feet and hands. Good circulation promotes a healthy glow, and massage helps tone the body, relax tense muscles and helps eliminate waste. Try almond oil scented with a few drops of cinnamon and orange for a seasonal scent!

Try the simple honey and egg mask for a home made spa treat for the face and neck.